Local Flavors: Madeline’s Restaurant in Cambria features California-French cuisine

Madeline’s Restaurant in Cambria features lots of tasty reduction sauces

Katy Budge

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David Stoothoff has an impressive restaurant résumé.

He’s been a sous chef and a general manager, an owner of multiple restaurants, and worked for such success stories as T. G. I. Friday’s and F. McLintocks, but these days he relishes being the chef/owner of his cozy Madeline’s Restaurant and Catering in Cambria.

The Madeline’s menu (developed with the help of Chef Joseph Molina, formerly of Seven Hands on Higuera and now at The Alisal Guest Ranch Resort in Santa Ynez Valley) is perhaps best described as “California-French (cuisine) with lots of reductions,” said Stoothoff.

MADELINE’S CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE CAKE

This luxurious delight is a favorite dessert at Madeline’s in Cambria.

Makes: One 10-inch cake

For the crust

• 1/4 pound butter (unsalted)

• 1/4 cup sugar

• pinch of salt

• 1/3 pound walnuts, shelled, ground

Melt butter, sugar, and salt in sauté pan over medium heat.

Add walnuts and stir constantly for about one minute; do not let mixture blacken.

Spread nut mixture evenly with a spatula into the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan.

Place pan in freezer.

For the first cake layer

• 1/2 pound butter (unsalted)

• 1 pound Belgian chocolate (or other high percentage cocoa), chopped

• 2 cups heavy cream

In a double boiler, melt butter.

Add chocolate and stir until smooth.

Add cream and stir while scraping sides, approximately 2 minutes.

Pour over crust and return to freezer.

For the second cake layer

• 1/2 pound butter (unsalted)

• 1 pound Belgian chocolate (or other high percentage cocoa), chopped

• 3 cups heavy cream

• 3-4 ounces Chambord, Grand Marnier, Kahlúa or other liqueur (optional)

In a double boiler, melt butter.

Add chocolate and stir until smooth, remove from heat.

Whip cream with whisk or blender until soft peaks form.

If desired, stir liqueur into chocolate.

Fold whipped cream into chocolate in thirds. (Do not stir too long or leave cream out too long or it will break.)

Pour over first layer and return to freezer for at least 2 hours.

To serve, remove from freezer and cut with a hot, dry knife.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Madeline’s Restaurant and Catering, at 788 Main St. in Cambria’s West Village, is open daily (except Wednesday) for dinner and for “lunches to go.” For reservations, lunches to go (preferably ordered the day before pickup), or for catering information, call 927-4175.

Starters might include seared scallops, mushroom crepes, baked brie or Caesar salad, while entrees run the gamut from seafood pasta to filet mignon with balsamic reduction, from pan-seared duck breast to eggplant rollatini, and “a different fish every night, which I try to get locally from Morro Bay.”

Stoothoof also visits Cambria’s farmers market on Fridays, and gets fresh local produce from McCall Farm located east of Cambria, so the menu changes accordingly.

“I’ll always have certain things like a filet mignon, pork or lamb, but I’ll do them differently,” he said.

He puts a fresh spin on things by doing a different reduction or just by using another cut of meat. One type of cut he’ll never use is a shortcut, however.

“I make everything myself, there’s no one else that does the prep,” Stoothoff said. “I’m here six days a week — usually by 10 in the morning —making the soup, making all of the reductions, and then I also cook everything every night. If I’m not here, we’re closed.”

Moreover, Stoothoof admits that “I have a lot of fun talking with people, so I try to talk with every table.

“It’s nice to have a little spot like this,” he says, “and this is a great little town.”