SanLuisObispo.com: Wine

Wine Notes: Former Mondavi viticulturist gets 'the bug'

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 07:37 PST

By Janis Switzer -- With a tasting room that’s only two months old, and a wine label only three years old, one may think Neil Roberts is a newcomer to the Paso Robles wine community. Nothing could be further from the truth. Even though he introduced his label Clavo Cellars to the public just a couple years ago, he has been contributing to the growth and development of Paso Robles wines behind the scenes for more than 20 years.

Under the banner of Roberts Vineyard Services, Roberts has been managing vineyards and growing grapes for some of the region’s finest vineyards, including Peachy Canyon, Robert Hall, Edward Sellers and Ancient Peaks, to name a few. Before that he was the head viticulturist for Robert Mondavi, overseeing all the wine giant’s vineyard properties on the Central Coast, spanning from Monterey down to Santa Barbara County.

Since moving to Paso Robles from Santa Maria in 1996, he has also been an active member of the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, serving on the board of that organization for six years, and presiding as chairman for two.

The Grapevine: Try Pinot Noir for a Thanksgiving toast with the most

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 09:23 PST

By Laurie Daniel -- I wouldn’t think of having Thanksgiving dinner without wine at the table, but the turkey day feast presents a number of challenges.

Because of the numerous side dishes, the range of flavors in the meal is mind-boggling, from sweet to tart to savory. I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that Thanksgiving dinner is one of the most difficult meals to pair with a single wine or even a couple of wines.

After lots of experimenting, I’m convinced that red wine is the way to go. I’ve settled on pinot noir as my go-to wine for Thanksgiving. (A close second would be syrah and other Rhône-style reds; for some ideas, see last week’s column about Paso Robles syrah.)

Wine Notes: Cal Poly alums create 'palate cleansing beverage' aimed at winemakers

Thu, 20 Nov 2008 12:27 PST

By Janis Switzer -- Five months after receiving their diplomas, most college graduates are looking for a job, looking for a place to live, and just generally looking for a direction in life.

Not so with Andrew Macaluso and Nicole Chamberlain, who are traveling California test marketing and selling the innovative new product they developed while working toward their degrees in enology and viticulture in Cal Poly’s wine and viticulture program.

The product they created is SanTásti, a “palate cleansing beverage” that they hope will help winemakers evaluate their wines more accurately, as well as help tasting rooms better represent their wines to often overwhelmed consumers.

The Grapevine: Paso evolves from cab and zin to syrah, the new king

Wed, 12 Nov 2008 08:42 PST

By Laurie Daniel -- There was a time when Paso Robles probably was best known for its zinfandels. Cabernet sauvignon has its fans, and it’s the most widely planted grape in the appellation, accounting for more than a third of the vineyard acreage. But syrah, which has been a tough sell for many California vintners, has moved to the forefront in Paso Robles.

It’s tough to say why syrah has gained traction in Paso Robles. Syrah, in general, is a versatile and adaptable grape. It grows well in a variety of surroundings, producing a user-friendly wine with plump fruit and intriguing spicy notes. And it’s versatile at the table, which is why it’s a good bet for holiday meals.

Or, as Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery puts it: “Syrah is the wine that merlot wanted to be.” But those characteristics are true of syrah from many places.

Wine Notes: Science and art blends at Vihuela

Thu, 20 Nov 2008 12:27 PST

By Janis Switzer -- At the beginning, Matt Mikulics’ path to becoming a winemaker was not that unlike many others in this area.

An engineer by training, with a successful technology career in Southern California, Mikulics started venturing up to Central Coast wine country in the mid-80s to savor the wines and enjoy the laid-back lifestyle.

As his thirst for good wine overtook his interest in engineering, Mikulics enrolled and graduated from Fresno State’s enology program.

The Grapevine: A remarkable vineyard in Napa

Tue, 04 Nov 2008 17:02 PST

By Laurie Daniel -- It’s not in one of the Napa Valley’s swankiest areas, like Oakville, Rutherford or Spring Mountain. But Stagecoach Vineyard, high in the rugged eastern hills, is the source of some of Napa’s most sought-after grapes.

About a third of the 500-acre vineyard lies in the Atlas Peak appellation; the rest is part of the overall Napa Valley appellation. It sits above Oakville and vineyards belonging to such cult producers as Dalla Valle. To the north is Pritchard Hill, home to vineyards for other cult wineries, like Bryant Family.

Overseeing this remarkable piece of ground is Jan Krupp, a former physician who found the property in the mid-1990s. In 1991 he had planted a nearby 33-acre vineyard, Krupp Vineyard, and became a part-time viticulturist. When 750 acres in the area came up for sale a few

The Grapevine: Nero d’avola is putting Sicilian reds on the map

Wed, 01 Oct 2008 08:30 PDT

By Laurie Daniel -- PALERMO, Italy — Although two-thirds of Sicily’s vineyard acreage is devoted to white grapes, the red wines are getting most of the attention. And much of the interest in Sicilian reds is focused on nero d’avola.

Nero d’avola is the island’s most widely planted red grape, accounting for about 15 percent of the total acreage. You can find a little nero d’avola outside Sicily; I’ve even tasted one from Mendocino County. But Sicily is the place with which it’s most inextricably linked.

Nero d’avola is a late-ripening grape that thrives in hot, dry climates, making it a near-perfect match for the almost desertlike conditions found in much of Sicily. The grape does well on most of the island, with the notable exception being the cooler, damper area around Mount Etna. It’s often bottled as a standalone variety, but it’s sometimes blended with cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah, a grape with which nero d’avola often is compared. It produces deep, dark, robust, sometimes spicy wines. Some versions can end up tasting a little overripe and baked, but the better bottles are bright and lively.

Wine Notes: Light harvest follows hard season

Wed, 01 Oct 2008 07:52 PDT

By Janis Switzer -- Now that we’re about a month into the 2008 wine grape harvest, you’ll hear two words often mentioned by just about every grower in San Luis Obispo County: “light” to describe the yield, and “shatter” to explain why.

“There’s not a lot of fruit hanging out there,” says Lisa Pretty of Pretty- Smith Vineyards in Paso Robles, “but what is there is looking really good.”

In San Luis Obispo County, projections on yield are similar to Northern California. Some growers are experiencing yields that are off as much as 40 percent for some varieties — cabernet sauvignon, merlot and other red varietals have been affected the most. Other varietals, such as chardonnay, seem hardly to be affected at all. And across the county and across most vineyards, berry size and clusters are small.

Laurie Daniel: At Cinquain Cellars, the wine is bottled poetry

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 13:32 PDT

By Laurie Daniel -- David Nagengast, a 1985 enology graduate from Fresno State University, had worked at several wineries in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Clara County and Oregon. But, as is so often the case, he and his wife, Beth, dreamed of having their own vineyard and winery, perhaps as a retirement project.

David was working for Storrs Winery in Santa Cruz in 2000 when they began their search for the perfect spot. They started looking in Grass Valley “and worked our way down” the state, he says. It wasn’t long before he found a 20-acre property in San Miguel, in the northeastern part of the Paso Robles appellation.

“The hillside was beautiful for growing grapes,” he says. And the size of the property was right: “We didn’t want to get in over our heads.” Nagengast made an offer on the property even before his wife and three sons had seen it.

Local Wine Picks: Zenaida Cellars

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 13:32 PDT

By Laurie Daniel -- This year marks the 10th anniversary at Zenaida Cellars, on the west side of Paso Robles. Zenaida’s grapes come from 22 acres in the Templeton Gap area, near Highway 46 West. This week’s picks include a couple of reasonably priced blends, as well as a well-balanced zinfandel.

Zenaida Cellars 2007 ZC White Estate Cuvée $15

ZC White is a blend of 90 percent chardonnay and 10 percent viognier. The wine is fresh and a little creamy, with white stone fruit and pear flavors, accented by an interesting salty minerality.

Wine Notes: Booker Vineyard owner gave up OC life for winemaking

Thu, 20 Nov 2008 12:28 PST

By Janis Switzer -- Ten years ago, when Eric Jensen left his high-profile life as a concert-and-event promoter in Newport Beach, the self-described wine geek simply wanted a more bucolic experience growing grapes and living in quiet Paso Robles. With no viticulture experience, the 41-year-old bought 72 acres of rugged, rocky hillside and sought the advice of his Westside neighbors, especially good friends Pebble and Justin Smith of the James Berry Vineyard.

“Pebble Smith is, to me, the smartest guy on the Westside,” Jensen says. And of his son, Justin, “I owe him such a debt of gratitude.”

Today, Jensen is supplying grapes to some of the area’s most respected premium wineries and making wine under Booker Vineyard. He also is paying his debt of gratitude, by passing down his advice and leadership to another generation of wine enthusiasts who are working with him in his winery and tasting room.

Laurie Daniel: Curious grapes can yield some enticing wines

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 14:25 PDT

By Laurie Daniel: -- Chardonnay is California’s most widely planted grape, at nearly 95,000 acres, with cabernet sauvignon a distant second. But the state’s vineyards boast an astonishing range of grape varieties. Some are so sparsely planted that they aren’t listed in the annual California Grape Acreage Report. Others show up, but with fewer than 100 acres planted.

I love sampling these wines made from esoteric grapes. Some of the grapes—think tocai friulano or verdelho—are widely used in other countries but little-known here. Others aren’t well-known anywhere. I first encountered a broad range of these sorts of wines at Wild Horse Winery in Templeton. Thenowner Ken Volk loved working with these oddball grapes, and he was always looking for something new. “What’s the hardest thing to pronounce, and where can I get the grapes?” he joked at the time.

Volk sold Wild Horse, but he’s up to his old tricks at his new winery, Kenneth Volk Vineyards, where he makes wines like verdelho and negrette. Wild Horse also continues to produce some of the wines that Volk liked so much. And these days I’m seeing more of these unusual wines from a number of wineries.

Wine Notes: New director of winemanking at Wild Horse Winery and Vineyards has some tall glasses to fill

Fri, 12 Sep 2008 07:11 PDT

By Janis Switzer -- As the new director of winemaking at Wild Horse Winery and Vineyards in Templeton, Clay Brock follows some big names.

After all, it was industry veteran Ken Volk who founded the winery back in 1982 and by 2003 grew it to 200,000 cases, and one of the most successful winery operations in the Paso Robles area. Volk sold the operation to liquor conglomerate Beam Brands five years ago, and his protégé Mark Cummins took over winemaking duties after years of studying under him.

Now Brock is walking into that role, and with another new owner holding the purse strings—Icon Estates of Constellation Brands bought Beam in December—he is excited and confident about the future of the Wild Horse brand.

September wine events

Fri, 12 Sep 2008 00:47 PDT

As the 2008 harvest gets under way, there are some fun events coming up to taste wines, eat food from local chefs and chat with local winemakers. Here are a few to consider:

>> THIS WEEKEND

• Fifth annual WestFest: The Highway 46 West Winery group is set to host the WestFest event Saturday at the Peachy Canyon winery tasting room. Featuring 15 wineries, this event also will have a blues band, lots of grilled tri-tip and wines produced from grapes grown on the west side of Paso Robles. The event starts at 4 p. m., and tickets are $45 per person or $80 per couple. visit www.paso46westwineries.com for tickets and more information. • Fifth annual Taste of the Central Coast: This annual event on Sunday featuring vintners and chefs from all over the Central Coast, and hosted by the Family Care Network, has been sold out.

Laurie Daniel: Sicilian winemakers are rethinking bulk reds, whites

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 14:25 PDT

By Laurie Daniel -- Consumers who’ve discovered the wines of Sicily have almost certainly popped the cork on a bottle of nero d’avola, the indigenous red grape variety for which the island is best known. But what surprised me during a recent trip was the astonishing variety in white wines.

Sure, there’s chardonnay — it’s currently much in vogue in Sicily, both as a stand-alone variety and as a blending component —but the wines that interested me the most were made from grapes like grillo, grecanico, carricante, catarratto and insolia (sometimes spelled “inzolia” and also known as ansonica).

Even though Sicily’s whites aren’t well-known, white grapes account for about two-thirds of the island’s vineyard acreage. That shouldn’t come as a surprise, because white wines are the natural complement to Sicily’s seafood-centric cuisine. Tuna, swordfish and sardines are nearly ubiquitous. The cuisine also reflects the history of the island, which has been settled by such diverse people as Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Moors and Normans. And with its warm, sunny climate, the island has an incredible array of produce.

Wine Notes: Rob Rossi and Bill Swanson have purchased a parcel of winery land along Corbett Canyon Road

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 07:15 PDT

By Julie Lynem -- An Edna Valley property that has served as a production, winemaking facility and distribution site for numerous national wine brands has been sold to two partners with county roots.

Developer Rob Rossi and Bill Swanson, the chief executive officer of Massachusetts-based Raytheon Co. and an Edna Valley homeowner who grew up in Morro Bay, bought the vineyard and winery facility at 2196 Corbett Canyon Road for an undisclosed sum.

The property was sold by Vintage Wine Trust Inc., a San Rafael-based real estate investment trust. A REIT is a corporation or business trust that manages a portfolio of real estate. In this case, the trust focuses solely on the wine and vineyard industry. The deal closed July 31.

Laurie Daniel: Australia’s Margaret River turns out quality cabs

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 14:25 PDT

The Australian wine industry has built much of its reputation on its inexpensive, easy-to-drink wines and jam-my (and usually more expensive) shirazes from the Barossa Valley. But I’m also a fan of the distinctive cabernet sauvignons of Margaret River.

It’s easy to overlook Margaret River, which is in Western Australia, about three hours south of Perth. Australia’s familiar brands, like Yellowtail, Lindemans and Penfolds, are far away, in another corner of the country. And Margaret River in general doesn’t produce the big, fat, ripe reds that consumers of Australian wines have grown to love. But the area—where the climate is moderated by the presence of ocean on three sides — has a nearly perfect climate for elegant cabernet sauvignon.

A Western Australian scientist, John Gladstones, concluded in the 1960s that Margaret River had a climate close to that of Bordeaux but with less spring frost and more reliably sunny weather during the growing season.

Wine Notes: Templeton couple's perseverance paid off

Fri, 29 Aug 2008 07:09 PDT

By Janis Switzer -- When I first met Scott and Bobbi Steizle in December 2006, the Templeton couple were trying to figure out how they were going to relabel 3,600 bottles of wine already in cases and ready to be sold. They were using their basement as a tasting room, their garage as a winery, and were just about to open a bed and breakfast they had no idea how to run. In my column at the time (Wine Notes, 12/6/06), I quoted German philosopher Nietsche: “That which does not kill us makes us stronger.”

Yet with all these challenges, the couple remained optimistic. Their house was finally finished, their winery under construction, the trademark fight for their original Fortitude name was behind them, and they were starting anew under the name Venteux Vineyards.

Now, with their new tasting room open, and their B&B in full operation, the Steizles aren’t quite at the point where they can say they’re finished with all their plans, but as Scott confidently says, “We’re close.” And they have definitely come through the project stronger.

The Grapevine: Ancient Peaks Winery focuses on Bordeaux wines

Wed, 27 Aug 2008 07:41 PDT

Like so many spots in California, Santa Margarita Ranch got its first grapevines from Franciscan missionaries, back in 1774. The Franciscans even built a way station between the San Luis Obispo and San Miguel missions that still stands on the ranch.

Fast forward to the present. The 12,000-acre ranch, which was part of a Spanish land grant at one point and surrounds the town of Santa Margarita, is now owned by three families: the Filipponis, Rossis and Wittstroms. Wine grapes are thriving there on the 866-acre Margarita Vineyard. And those three families have started a wine brand, Ancient Peaks Winery.

The name Ancient Peaks is a nod to the Santa Lucia Mountains, which form a backdrop to Margarita Vineyard. The vineyard was developed by the Robert Mondavi Corp., which leased the land in the late 1990s. Mondavi never took any fruit, though: By the first harvest, in 2004, the company was in the thick of the turmoil that resulted in its eventual acquisition by wine giant Constellation Brands.

Wine Notes: Midnight Cellars gives the competition a swirl

Fri, 22 Aug 2008 07:01 PDT

By Janis Switzer -- Rich Hartenberger doesn’t take his competitions lightly — especially when it’s the annual Winemakers’ Cook-Off in Paso Robles.

The winemaker at Midnight Cellars was up to 1 a. m. the night before the event working with friend Hal Schmitt to perfect their recipe for “Midnight Beefapalooza.”

They spent hours on their port-wine reduction sauce and making mushroom duxelle, and got up again at 6 a. m. to work on their made-from-scratch puff pastry. All of this to produce a deconstructed Beef Wellington that ended up winning the Peoples’ Choice Award, against 30 other local winemakers.

The Grapevine: California whites perfect way to toast end of summer

Tue, 19 Aug 2008 13:50 PDT

August is more than half gone, and the kids are going back to school soon. But that doesn’t mean the hot weather is over. The warm days of late summer and early fall provide ample time to explore the fresh, crisp white wines that are so refreshing when the temperature climbs.

Back in June, I told you about some delicious white wines for summertime quaffing. But I’ve had the opportunity since then to taste a number of excellent whites. So consider this a second installment. Best of all, they all cost $20 or less.

Sauvignon blanc

Wine Notes: Big risk, big payoff

Thu, 20 Nov 2008 12:32 PST

By Janis Switzer -- There are different ways to be successful in the wine business. Making good wine is a given.

But once you have wine in hand, there are several ways to sell it to consumers. One option that is popular now is a dedicated tasting room—as evidenced by more than a dozen in downtown Paso Robles. Another option is a big advertising campaign that gets your brand out to millions of consumers via magazines and other media outlets.

But an unconventional option, one usually seen as risky, is to rely entirely on a distribution network. That is what Tarrica Wine Cellars in Shandon has done, and against all odds, its owners have made it work flawlessly.

The Grapevine: Riesling makers try to shed grape’s sweet reputation

Wed, 13 Aug 2008 10:37 PDT

Riesling is one of the world’s most under-appreciated grapes, especially among American wine drinkers. Sommeliers love it because it’s so versatile and easy to pair with a variety of foods. Ditto wine writers. But American consumers can’t seem to shed the misconception that all riesling is sweet, and sophisticated wine drinkers aren’t supposed to like sweet wines.

In fairness, when you buy a bottle of riesling it can be difficult to discern just how sweet the wine is going to be. German rieslings contain some indications, with terms like “trocken” (dry) or “kabinett” (semisweet). Some domestic rieslings carry the word “dry” on their labels, but even that is no guarantee, because there is no objective standard for what is “dry.” Some labels list residual sugar, but that’s only a part of the picture: A riesling can have some residual sugar but still taste fresh and crisp because the wine contains so much acidity.

This confusion and what to do about it was a major topic of discussion at the second Riesling Rendezvous, a trade event held recently at Chateau Ste. Michelle, outside Seattle. The event — which included wines from seven countries— is co-sponsored by Ste. Michelle and Ernst Loosen, a riesling producer in Germany’s Mosel region and Ste. Michelle’s partner in a Washington state riesling called Eroica.

Wine Notes: Profit not a priority for winemaking pair

Fri, 08 Aug 2008 10:37 PDT

By Janis Switzer -- It’s the key question that most people who dream of someday owning a small winery in the country ask themselves: Can you make any money doing it? Rob Campbell-Taylor’s answer is a simple “I don’t think so.”

Campbell-Taylor and his wife, Paula, have been following their wine country dream for five years, and they admit they’re still 10 years away from seeing financial success. But that hasn’t discouraged them.

“It’s all-consuming, hard work,” says Paula, “but we’re adoring it.”

Winning Wines

Thu, 07 Aug 2008 23:04 PDT

MEDALS

Robert Hall Winery

2005 Meritage: Platinum Honors –Critics Challenge International Wine

The Grapevine: Wine drinkers also love a good summer read

Wed, 06 Aug 2008 08:50 PDT

As summer winds down, many of us are still in search of another good book for reading on vacation or during a lazy afternoon in a hammock or under a beach umbrella. For some people, this means devouring mysteries or romance novels. But if your tastes run to wine, there is some good summer reading for you.

The books that follow have something else in common: They all, to one degree or another, sound an alarm about globalization, the power of some wine critics and the homogenization of wine styles.

The alarm is loudest in “The Battle for Wine and Love or How I Saved the World from Parkerization” (Harcourt, 271 pp., $23), Alice Feiring’s call to arms in defense of what she calls traditional or authentic wines and against wines that have been subjected to a lot of newfangled technology. The title does indicate a fair amount of wishful thinking: Though she’s making a valiant effort, Feiring has hardly saved the world from “Parkerization,” which refers to the way some winemakers apparently try to craft wines that will earn high scores from über-critic Robert Parker. Parker, in an interview with Feiring, expresses skepticism that “Parkerization” even exists, but it’s clear to me that more wines than ever are being made in the huge, concentrated, jammy, lavishly oaked style that he gives his best scores to.

Wine Notes: Another reason to taste in SLO

Fri, 01 Aug 2008 06:54 PDT

By Janis Switzer -- While tasting rooms in Paso Robles have proliferated so quickly that there are now more than a dozen in just a few blocks, wine tasting in downtown San Luis Obispo has been relegated to just three locations: two wine merchants and the San Luis Obispo Vintner’s Association storefront, Taste. That may start to change now that Shadow Canyon Cellars has opened its doors one block from Mission San Luis Obispo.

Owner Gary Gibson says he decided to open his tasting room in downtown San Luis Obispo partly because there are so many tasting rooms in Paso Robles that costs there are high. He also feared that getting attention in a crowded field might be difficult for the small winery. Lastly, he says, he lives in San Luis Obispo and wanted to bring more wine consciousness to the area.

“It’s good for people visiting downtown SLO to know they don’t necessarily have to go to Paso to taste wine,” he said.

Winning Wines

Fri, 01 Aug 2008 03:19 PDT

News

Vina Robles Hospitality Center hosts Ballroom Dance Lessons every Thursday. The series features swing and fox-trot lessons with Blake Kownacki. Instruction will take place from 6 to 7 p. m. with a dance social hour to follow. Wine will be available for purchase with complimentary appetizers. Tickets are $12 per person and $10 per person for wine club members. Reservations suggested. For more information, call 369-0140.

Medals

The Grapevine: Alone or blended, Rhone grapes have big appeal

Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:14 PDT

When it comes to Rhone reds, syrah (sometimes called shiraz) grabs most of the attention. But there are 11 recognized red grape varieties from France’s Rhone region. Some play only a minor role in France and are virtually unknown here. Others are used mostly for blending. But some, like grenache, can play a starring role both here and abroad.

Syrah is probably so well-known in California because it’s so ubiquitous. At more than 18,000 acres, it’s by far the most widely planted Rhone red, and it’s planted both in the high-quality coastal appellations and in the Central Valley. (The second most-planted red Rhone grape, grenache, accounts for less than half that acreage; some other varieties aren’t even listed separately in the annual California grape acreage reports.)

A seminar at the recent Central Coast Wine Classic in Shell Beach aimed a spotlight on some of the lesser-known Rhone reds, as well as the increasingly common red Rhone blends. That tasting also prompted me to go back over my tasting notes from the last several months to find additional grenaches, mourvèdres and blends to recommend.

Sheffer of Halter Ranch vineyard is local Winemaker of the Year

Thu, 24 Jul 2008 22:04 PDT

By Janis Switzer -- E very year, on the evening before the opening of the California Mid- State Fair, the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, in partnership with the Independent Grape Growers of Paso Robles and the San Luis Obispo Vintners Association, announce the San Luis Obispo Wine Industry Awards for the year.

This week, the four recipients of these awards represent a combined 90 years of winemaking and grape-growing experience in the region.

Winemaker of the Year, William Sheffer